The Fox Gates

When you think of Japanese scenery an image of tall bamboo and vermilion shrine gates probably pop into mind. Those images are the Arashiyama/Sagano Bamboo Grove and Fushimi Inari Taisha which are oftentimes seen in tourist guide books or as desktop backgrounds. Fushimi Inari Taisha (formerly known as Inari Shrine) is famous for its uncountable shrine gates. The shrine was founded in the year 711.^ref During the Edo period it became popular to donate gates to the shrine. Consequently ten thousand gates were added and the path known as the thousand gates was created.

The following photos were taken during a visit to Fushimi Inari Taisha. On this August day it was raining, and since it was during the covid19 outbreak there were few visitors at the shrine.

About 10 minutes away from the main shrine is a pathway with gates placed so tight that it feels like entering a tunnel. This is the famous thousand gates pathway. According to a 2013 survey there are about 800 shrines along this path. Since this is the highlight of Fushimi, there seem to be a lot of tourists who walk down the path, take a few photos and then leave the shrine.

Once you get through the thousand there you arrive at another shrine in the back. Here they sell votive tablets in the shape of a fox head. A face is filled in on the front of the tablet, and a wish is written on the back before it's hung. Among the drawn and hung tablets are not only foxes but amusingly also anime characters and a man with a goatee.

In between the gates there are statues of foxes. After walking for a little while you'll realize that there are foxes no matter where you look. This is because foxes are the divine messengers of Inari. Next to the shrine in the back is a small yard and even here there are statues of foxes. Here one unusual western garden fox statue can be spotted. In front of every subordinate shrine there are at least 2 or 4 foxes. Maybe it would not be wrong to call this place the fox gates and people would still understand where it is.

From here we have finally walked across the foot of the mountain and will now embark on a climb. Up the first flights of stairs is a dimly lit area surrounded by small shrines and connected with narrow steps. The sound of rain echo from a pond closeby and every-now-and then a person appears and walks down the narrow shrine corridors in the rain. From left to right there are foxes that look right back at you and a look around reveals snails on an ascent on various objects.

Before arriving at the mountain pass we reach a viewing platform. From here the south part of Kyoto can be seen and in the distance - Muko City. Another flight up is a vending machine with cool drinks. "Oh man, I am thirsty!" you could hear a young university student say in front of the machine as he reached down for some coins. From here one can sit down on a bench, drink and enjoy the view.

Mt.Inari consists of three mountain passes. At the foot of the mountain they sell small portable shrine gates that visitors may place around the shrine. As can be seen throughout the pictures these small gates have been placed around and in places they have piled up in such a large amount that workers have gathered them up to be stowed away in the back. They can even be found up at the top.

And finally we have reached the top where we find yet another subordinate shrine. Here the color of the vermilion gates stick out among the gray stones and statues. On this day the mountain top was covered in a white mist which made the surrounding view appear as nothing but a white page.

As one climbed down the stairs, silhouettes of other visitors disappeared behind the mist.

Along the descending path is a creek pouring out from the mountain. Downstream is a small artificial waterfall with a road leading up to it that makes it possible for one to enter the waterfall.

Finally we have returned to the bottom from where we leave Fushimi Inari Taisha.